Gastronomic Weekend
September 29th, 2009
Leaving behind the inevitable queues of catching a flight at Gatwick, we came out into the warm sunshine in Montpellier to be greeted by our coach driver for the short transfer to Pézenas.
The Hotel Genieys in Pézenas is located just a stroll from the historic town centre and has all the charm of a French provincial 2* hotel. Clean and comfortable with the obligatory suspect plumbing which it has to be said performed faultlessly all weekend if somewhat noisily. After checking in, since we did not have our first gastronomic spectacular booked until 8.00pm, it was time to explore! Some headed for the cafes in the square, with the somewhat weak excuse that they wanted to have a look at the statue of Moliere. Others set off to explore the labyrinthine medieval streets of Pézenas.
Later that evening we set off for our first gourmet experience at Restaurant L’entre pots. From the outside it looked like nothing special, but once inside it was fabulous. We had a big room to ourselves and the walls were decorated with pictures by local artist Filipo whose studio we visited the next day. The food was exceptional; I particularly enjoyed the Pavé de thon accompanied by a fine local Chardonnay.
On Saturday morning Pézenas hosts a superb market. As you would expect there are stalls for every type of local produce imaginable as well as clothes. There were also street musicians and someone with a miniature pot-bellied pig on a lead.
After a couple of hours enjoying the market, it was back on the coach to visit the Domaine de l’Arjolle for a wine tasting and lunch. We were met by the Proprietor Mr Teisserenc outside next to the Chateau de Margon where he showed us his fermenting vessels. Then we moved on to the vineyards to see the vines and taste some Merlot grapes that were due to be picked in a day or two. They were so sweet and plump, Mr Teisserenc thinks 2009 will be a very good year. Anne’s car fell in a ditch so we had to push it out and we had not even started the wine tasting! Then it was back to the cave for the tasting. We tried five different single grape wines accompanied by local charcuteries made by our chef for the day. He also produced a selection of hors d’oeuvres to enjoy on the terrace with Mr Teisserenc’s sparkling methode champenoise. Everyone’s favourite was the miniature Crème brûlée with foie gras. Our caterer then barbecued some scrumptious lamb steaks. What a great way to spend a Saturday morning. Interesting wines, good food, good company in a superb location.
All the local arrangements were made by Anne de Ravel who I can not praise highly enough. Should you want to find out about the cuisine of this area she can be contacted through her website http://www.saveurlanguedoc.com/
In the past, the highpoint of a Classical Partners visit to Europe has been an opera evening. This is the first time we have focused solely on food and wine – and judging by the response we may have to do this again!
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